Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 13:06:40 -0500
Sauron1 writes;
When we Wargame with miniatures of different scales it=
is hard to reconcile the scale of the terrain with that of the playing pie=
ces. As a terrain builder, and creator of most of the terrain (others are b=
etter at buildings ) of my club I have found that the smooth sloping hills =
work the best for all scales. We have three or four 4'x8' tables worth of 2=
'x2' or 2'x4' terrain boards. But this tends to result in a limitation of g=
ently rolling slopes with no real mountainous or cliffaced pieces.
Lat=
ely we have been creating more drastic "barrier" terrain with blue Styrofoa=
m plastered.painted and grassed. Cliffs, mesas and other hill types then ca=
n be arranging on a cloth surface. A blue cloth leaves a river with steeper=
sides where the hills now act as eather islands or the basic ground level.=
A green cloth is bought that matches closely the grass on the hills and fe=
lt establishes the edges of woods fields or rivers and swamps or roads.
=
Our trees are mostly self manufactured ones, but they take a beating and=
I make about 100 replacements every year.Tree basing is generally a proble=
m, as a washer is to uniform. I often use thick card. Hedges tend to be str=
ips of green pot scrubber based on those larger tong depressors with variou=
s leaf or grass effects applied. Shades of litchen glued to irregularly sha=
pped card are used to create patches of bushes or whole woods for epic scal=
e. Some dried bush obviously make great trees or bushes, eather as bought o=
r with flocking added, but I find thease are best for personal collections =
and do not stand up to general club usage. =
sauron1
(image/gif attachment: 01-part)