Re: [Epic] GW Substitutions

From: sauron1 <sauron1_at_...>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 20:04:20 -0700

Brett Hollindale wrote:
>
> At 06:48 PM 15/4/97 +0800, you wrote:
> >
> >>>It tends to take about an hour to three hours to get the resin to set.
> >>>And about thirty minutes to set up the molds if you haven't cast them
> >>>permanently.
> >>>
> >>
> >>Actually, if you use the right stuff, you can make pretty much anything.
> >>
> >>I've even seen Terminators where the only way you could tell it wasn't a
> >>real termie was that the twin gun barrels had tiny air bubbles in them.
> >>
> >>Agro
> >>
> >
> >Wow ! But before I ask you what the "right" stuff is, is this guy a very
> >experienced guy, I mean as in "Is he almost a pro quality (ala Golden Daemon
> >equivalent for resin casting)?"
>
> Nah. He's just a regular guy. No "pro quality" skill required.
>
> >
> >BTW what is the "right" stuff ?
> >
> >Regards
> >Oki
> >
> >
>
> "The right stuff" appears to be Araldite (brand) casting resin. It's a two
> part epoxy that takes about 48 hours to harden completely, but it is mostly
> hard in three hours or so... However while it is still fresh it pours like
> water and will fill any mold quite well.
>
> Aparently, you paint on a liquid latex molding rubber (commonly available
> from craft outlets) using a disposable paint brush (commonly available as
> kid's paint brushes at department stores). The secret of getting fine
> detail appears to be in making the layers of latex fairly thin. Twelve (or
> so) hours later you apply another coat and twelve hours after that and
> twelve hours after that and twelve hours after that...
>
> After about a week (three days for a small model) you have enough thickness
> of latex to stretch and peel and cut (if necessary) the mold off the figure.
>
> For a terminator, there is a solid piece of latex filling in the hollow
> between the termie's legs, so you stretch the mold enough to snip this with
> a pair of manicure scissors or a really sharp scalpel. For a titan or a
> knight, you make a cut up the backs of both legs and across the butt so that
> you can peel (and stretch) the mold off.
>
> If you had to cut the mold to get it off, paint the cut with the latex. A
> single layer will be enough to hold the resin, and it will probably just
> tear off along the original cut line when the resin is set.
>
> Some molds are good for repeat uses, but some are only good for one use.
>
> You sort of squish around the mold to remove air bubbles (sometimes I've
> seen a tooth pick used to stir around the resin) and there you have it.
>
> I recommend that this technique be used to mold rocks and such things to be
> used as terrain, since no one owns a copyrite on rocks...
>
> Agrosauron1_at_... writes; The rubber compound werks very
wellespecially for building components. For faster jobs you might try
silicone.If you glue the original object you have creatted down to a
solidbase,build a wall around it with lego! and with the silicone in the
usuall "grease Gun" dispenser force it onto the box.There is even a high
temperature silicone so you can reproduce your own creation in metal.
Thuogh the resin you mention is my prefered medium. All this work should
be done with as moutch ventilation as possible,preferable outdoors as
bouth materiuals cause headakes in some people. P.S. some jewelers will
copy anything! sauron1
Received on Thu Apr 17 1997 - 03:04:20 UTC