Re: [Epic] GW Substitutions

From: <oki_at_...>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 16:29:48 +0800

At 07:15 AM 4/16/97 GMT, you wrote:
>At 06:48 PM 15/4/97 +0800, you wrote:
>
>"The right stuff" appears to be Araldite (brand) casting resin. It's a two
>part epoxy that takes about 48 hours to harden completely, but it is mostly
>hard in three hours or so... However while it is still fresh it pours like
>water and will fill any mold quite well.
>
>Aparently, you paint on a liquid latex molding rubber (commonly available
>from craft outlets) using a disposable paint brush (commonly available as
>kid's paint brushes at department stores). The secret of getting fine
>detail appears to be in making the layers of latex fairly thin. Twelve (or
>so) hours later you apply another coat and twelve hours after that and
>twelve hours after that and twelve hours after that...
>

I am not sure if I get this right, so please bear with me :)
Ok, the steps are as follow :

1. To make a casting of a model,
        Paint model all over(?)thinly with a liquid latex molding rubber,
        Leaving each layer to dry (approx 12 hrs) before moving on.
                
>After about a week (three days for a small model) you have enough thickness
>of latex to stretch and peel and cut (if necessary) the mold off the figure.
>

2. After a few applications (6-14), the latex layer is cut.
      
Ques. Do we cut around the figure ? Ie, make an incision around the body ?
        Which divide the model into front half and back half ?

>For a terminator, there is a solid piece of latex filling in the hollow
>between the termie's legs, so you stretch the mold enough to snip this with
>a pair of manicure scissors or a really sharp scalpel. For a titan or a
>knight, you make a cut up the backs of both legs and across the butt so that
>you can peel (and stretch) the mold off.
>

3. This part I am really lost, sorry..
        But am I right in thinking that after making the incision all around
        the model, you then try to separate the (now) two pieces of latex apart?

        And if you have problem, you can pull/ stretch the latex off the model
        - concentrating on one end of the latex piece - like you are trying
        to open a bottle cap ? The latex will of course stretch but you
        should be able get some portion of the latex of the model ?

 
>If you had to cut the mold to get it off, paint the cut with the latex. A
>single layer will be enough to hold the resin, and it will probably just
>tear off along the original cut line when the resin is set.
>

4. When you cut the mold (which refer to the latex pieces right),
        do you mean if you are not able to separate
        the latex into two portions nicely, you just break the offending piece.
        After which you piece the "broken" pieces together and go over the
        mold with another layer of latex ?


>Some molds are good for repeat uses, but some are only good for one use.
>

5. I thought one had to cut channels or something like that ?

>You sort of squish around the mold to remove air bubbles (sometimes I've
>seen a tooth pick used to stir around the resin) and there you have it.
>
>I recommend that this technique be used to mold rocks and such things to be
>used as terrain, since no one owns a copyrite on rocks...
>

Fair enough, but in that case why not just get the real thing - rocks itself
? Definitely cheaper and more realistic even :)

Thanks Agro, for replying and hopefully clearing my uncertainties.


>Agro
>
>
Received on Wed Apr 16 1997 - 08:29:48 UTC