Re: [Epic] GW Substitutions

From: Brett Hollindale <agro_at_...>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 21:24:22 GMT

At 04:29 PM 16/4/97 +0800, you wrote:
>At 07:15 AM 4/16/97 GMT, you wrote:
>>At 06:48 PM 15/4/97 +0800, you wrote:
>>
>>"The right stuff" appears to be Araldite (brand) casting resin. It's a two
>>part epoxy that takes about 48 hours to harden completely, but it is mostly
>>hard in three hours or so... However while it is still fresh it pours like
>>water and will fill any mold quite well.
>>
>>Aparently, you paint on a liquid latex molding rubber (commonly available
>>from craft outlets) using a disposable paint brush (commonly available as
>>kid's paint brushes at department stores). The secret of getting fine
>>detail appears to be in making the layers of latex fairly thin. Twelve (or
>>so) hours later you apply another coat and twelve hours after that and
>>twelve hours after that and twelve hours after that...
>>
>
>I am not sure if I get this right, so please bear with me :)
>Ok, the steps are as follow :
>
>1. To make a casting of a model,
> Paint model all over(?)thinly with a liquid latex molding rubber,
> Leaving each layer to dry (approx 12 hrs) before moving on.
>


Yes, you paint the model.


>>After about a week (three days for a small model) you have enough thickness
>>of latex to stretch and peel and cut (if necessary) the mold off the figure.
>>
>
>2. After a few applications (6-14), the latex layer is cut.
>
>Ques. Do we cut around the figure ? Ie, make an incision around the body ?
> Which divide the model into front half and back half ?
>


You don't cut around the figure unless you realy need to. Most models you
just stretch the latex mold enough to pull it away from the model.
(Obviously you need somewhere to pour the resin, usually he pours through
the model's base...) In the case or the terminator (below) he stretches the
mold away from the model and snips that litle bit between the legs. No
other cutting required. He pours the resin, sqishes it around some and then
leaves it to dry. Since the bit between the legs is cut, he can simply pull
the mold off the completed copy.


>>For a terminator, there is a solid piece of latex filling in the hollow
>>between the termie's legs, so you stretch the mold enough to snip this with
>>a pair of manicure scissors or a really sharp scalpel. For a titan or a
>>knight, you make a cut up the backs of both legs and across the butt so that
>>you can peel (and stretch) the mold off.
>>
>
>3. This part I am really lost, sorry..
> But am I right in thinking that after making the incision all around
> the model, you then try to separate the (now) two pieces of latex
apart?


No. sometimes you dont need to cut at all. On bikes, he just sticks the
bike to a bit of paper and paints a few layers of latex all over. When it
is thick enough, he peels the latex off the paper and pops the bike out of
the mold. He pours through the base and no cutting is required.

For really complex figures, like a titan, he cuts the mold enough to get it
off the model and then latexes it back together before pouring through the
feet or the base...



>
> And if you have problem, you can pull/ stretch the latex off the model
> - concentrating on one end of the latex piece - like you are trying
> to open a bottle cap ? The latex will of course stretch but you
> should be able get some portion of the latex of the model ?
>
>
>>If you had to cut the mold to get it off, paint the cut with the latex. A
>>single layer will be enough to hold the resin, and it will probably just
>>tear off along the original cut line when the resin is set.
>>
>
>4. When you cut the mold (which refer to the latex pieces right),

right

> do you mean if you are not able to separate
> the latex into two portions nicely, you just break the offending piece.
> After which you piece the "broken" pieces together and go over the
> mold with another layer of latex ?
>

no. I am refering to after you have filled the mold and the resin is hard,
you need to remove the mold. Since it is only one layer thick in the place
that you originally cut it, it will usually tear along those lines quite easily.


>
>>Some molds are good for repeat uses, but some are only good for one use.
>>
>
>5. I thought one had to cut channels or something like that ?
>


It might help, I will suggest it to him, but at the moment he just squishes
the mold around to get the air bubbles out...




>>You sort of squish around the mold to remove air bubbles (sometimes I've
>>seen a tooth pick used to stir around the resin) and there you have it.
>>
>>I recommend that this technique be used to mold rocks and such things to be
>>used as terrain, since no one owns a copyrite on rocks...
>>
>
>Fair enough, but in that case why not just get the real thing - rocks itself
>? Definitely cheaper and more realistic even :)


Hmmm... You may be right. I've never seen a molded rock...

Agro

>
>Thanks Agro, for replying and hopefully clearing my uncertainties.
>
>
>>Agro
>>
>>
>
>
Received on Wed Apr 16 1997 - 21:24:22 UTC